The last Blog finished on our last evening in Etosha. The next morning we intended to be up around 5.30 and go to our campsites floodlit waterhole before sunrise. Jan was left in bed while Mike walked over to see what was about. Sadly nothing at all so we decided to go to the waterhole some 25Kms away where we saw the Leopard the morning before. After a quick tidy of the tent site to make it easier when we got back to drop the tent and go, we were at the gates to the camp area 1st in line to be let out exactly on sunrise (6.30am). We had only driven some 5-6 kms when we came across a pack of lion in the road all bloodied after a kill. A stop there for 15 mins with no one else around but lions playing by the car, on the road signs and in the scrub at the side. Our closest encounter yet but more was to follow. A few Kms further on another two lion laying down in the early morning sun then after another few kms we came to our first waterhole that day, more lions. The day was turning out to be a “lion day”. We then left that area to drive through the scrub to the Waterhole we wanted to get to. Arriving almost an hour after we had set out the waterhole was empty of any wildlife whereas the day before at 8.00am there was lots, all watching the leopard move away. We decided to drive back for the lions and get packing. Just after leaving the waterhole we saw in the scrub at the side of the track a leopard. Slam on the brakes and back up fully expecting it to have disappeared but no, it was a large male and came out behind the car and walked off. Brilliant sighting but only for a few mins. We could not have asked for better as leopard are the most elusive of all the cats, very rarely seen and very wary of people. We were not to know then what would happen a few days later in the mountains.
After that experience it was straight back to camp to clear up, take down the tent and get on the 300km drive into the mountains.
Etendeka Mountain Camp
The drive at first was uneventful on good roads and at good speed. After about 180kms the road disappeared into a dirt track with wonderful scenery but a much slower speed. At about 40kms before a small settlement called Palmwag, where we were to meet our next host and transfer to his vehicle for the drive to the camp we had to go over a mountain pass, not high compared to Alpine standards but the roads were rough. We reached the top, stopped for the obligatory photo by the sign then started the descent to Palmwag. It was steep and before we had gone very far we had our first tyre go but on the steepest part so no chance of changing it. We drove to the bottom on 3 tyres and one flat which was by then ruined. Change at the bottom and continue the 20 kms to Palmwag to see what we could do. Palmwag is not even a village more a petrol station and Vets disease control post, nothing else so no chance of getting a spare and we had many kms of mountains tracks to do later.
Our host was there and as agreed we transferred to his LandRover for the final 18kms into the mountain camp.
The camp was fantastic, high in the hills all solar electricity, water from wells deep in the rock and just wide open space and animals to disturb us. The camp takes about 12-18 people only in luxury tents with attached showers . The food, bar and all activities such as guided walks and drives we included.
Our guides, Denis and Bonnie were extremely knowledgeable and showed a lot of the area.
We stayed for 3 nights and with limited contact available we did manage to contact our tour agent about the tyre and one was flown up to Palmwag to be fitted to the spare for us to continue. Wonderful service there
Our final afternoon we went for a drive in the landrover miles across a high plain following a dried up river bed. As far from the camp as we were going to go, Bonnie spotted a leopard in the grass at the side some 200 metres away so we stopped. The leopard stayed in the grass for a while before fully showing when it came out to get a drink from a small pool of water. We all assumed that would be it, but no. The 9 of us in the group including Bonnie were all fascinated as even Bonnie thought it was unusual to see a leopard out in the open. As we were watching her, she was also us and decided to look closer. It was a young female, much smaller than the big male we saw closely in Etosha. She used reeds and grass at first as cover to get closer but then came out again rolling on her back showing no fear. The leopard watched us. Walking closer and even playing in some long reeds, just like a domestic kitten. We were all amazed that she was so out in the open and staeyed with us for some 30mins before we left her. As we left she even stood on a rock to watch us. It was amazing, a leopard within a few feet just posing so I managed to get hundreds of pictures while Jan was filing her.
Just a fantastic end to a wonderful place called Etendeka. Look up the website for Etendeka and if anyone ever comes to Namibia it is a must.
The next day was up early for the trip back to the car, get the spare stowed away and a long trip further north and into the Namib Desert proper for the next destination at Opuwo and the Himba Peoples. More of that later
Mike & Jan
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