As we put in the last blog we were going away for a week to
a small but beautiful National Park called Kasanka. This park is good most
times of the year for birding but at the end of October, early November it
becomes world famous as having the largest migration of any mammal in the
world. Approximately some ten million Straw Coloured Fruit Bats come together
and roost each night in a small area of woodland deep in the heart of this
park. The bats arrival is just before the rains start and continues into
December when they migrate back to forests in The Democratic Republic of Congo.
The reason they all come here is for the fruits that grow on the trees in the
rest of the park and the neighbouring area.
During the day the bats roost in the trees trying to keep
clear of predators such as eagles and other birds in the air and Leopards,
Pythons and crocodiles that inhabit the ground. At night they all fly off to
search for the fruit they eat. These bats, with wingspans of up to a metre wide
have excellent eyesight and unlike most bats, they do not use echolocation.
They are also known as “Flying Foxes” due to a facial similarity.
As they are a protected species the public is not allowed
into the roost area during this time but have access to a couple of places
nearby. The first one we went to for the three nights we were in the park.
Arrival was around 17.30hrs and it was then waiting for the bats to fly. The
site was about 300 metres from the nearest part of the roost and you could see
the bats getting restless, calling and often flying up from the roost only to
settle back down again. As the sun set and the moon rose and at pretty well
18.05 each of the nights we were there the bats suddenly streamed out from the
trees and flew overhead, calling all the time. It was an amazing spectacle to
see so many in the sky at once. The whole sky seemed full of the bats all
flying out. By 18.30 it was all over and with just a few stragglers flying
around the sky returned to normal.
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Sunset |
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Bats in the sky |
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Almost a full Moon |
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The sunset kept changing colours |
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Beautiful evening |
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Bats against the grass fire in the distance |
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Some of the millions of Bats |
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Silhouette |
On our final morning we rose at 03.00 to get a coffee, pack
the roof tent down and drive the 20 mins or so to the other location in the
park. This was a purpose built hide, high up in the tree canopy overlooking the
roost site. We had to be up there around 04.30 and although still dark, as we
walked through to forest to the hide we could hear the bats overhead. Climbing
high up into the canopy while still dark was a bit scary as it was mainly by
feel but once up there the noisy was awesome. As the sky lightened gradually
you could see more and more bats wheeling around. Again it all seemed to happen
exactly on time as the bats settled into trees on the edge at first then came
in to the main roosts and settled down under the canopy to keep clear of the
flying predators in the day. By 06.00 it was all over and most of the millions
of bats were lost to sight and only a few stragglers left in the sky. What an
amazing experience.
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Early morning light |
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Bats going down to roost |
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First light of Day |
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Looking down on the roost |
After saying goodbye to Kasanka National Park it was time to
take the “short” journey (about 70 Kms as the bat flies, About 140 as the track
goes by car and about 6 hours driving as I use the word track advisedly) we got
to Banguela Wetlands and Shoebill Island Camp. It is called wetlands as most of
the year it is flooded and Shoebill Island Camp is an island. That area has had
very little rain so far this season and is parched and bone dry. Even the
borehole at the camp was dry. We had come here to hope to get a sighting of
probably Africa’s rarest bird, the huge and very dinosaur looking Shoebill
Stork. This bird is only found in a few very wild and out of the way places in
Africa and Banguela Wetlands is one such place. The Shoebill is enormous and
lives in muddy, slow moving water. It is obvious why it is called a shoebill
with that huge great bill that is razor sharp and with a vicious hook at the end
for catching large catfish and lungfish that make up a lot of its diet.
The guide told us he knew where one was but it would mean a
drive then a walk as the water had receded so much. We were not going to be put
of and so we took the guide in our car and drove across fields, tracks and
areas of thick dust to get to an area where there was still water. Once there
it was out of the car, load cameras and backpack up and start walking. It was
very hot and clear skies as we walked but it was well worth it. Once into the
area that still had water the bird was found. I took a few photos from far off
as I did not want to come back without any but I needn’t have worried. The
Shoebill was very accepting of us and as long as we were quiet and moved slowly
it stayed where it was in what looked like a very muddy puddle. It was everybit
as amazing as I hoped for, a fantastic time with this extremely rare bird.
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First sighting of a Shoebill |
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Preening time |
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Dont I look Handsome |
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In a reflective Mood |
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Shoebill Step |
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Open Wings |
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Let Me Think |
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Ha Ha Ha |
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The Shoebill is used to sharing his puddle with others |
We are now back in a very wet Ndola after spending a week in
the wetlands where it was very dry. The drive back was through torrential rain
with often the roads more like rivers. We have a couple of weeks back at work
or sorting out various bits and pieces here before Jan and I head down to
Botswana for Christmas. We shall be leaving here somewhere around 16- 17th
Dec, heading down to Lusaka and then onto Livingstone for a few days. We will
then cross into Botswana to be in Kasane and Chobe National Park just before
Christmas. The best part for us is that on Boxing Day we shall be joined by
Andrew, Karen and Andrew’s partner, Louise for a slightly late Christmas Dinner
in the bush and then two weeks of driving through Chobe, Savuti, Moremi and
onto Maun before heading onto Makgadikgadi Pan, Nxai Pan and then return back
to Kasane for a trip into Zimbabwe and the world famous Victoria Falls. All
that we have to look forward to.
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